A Rainy Birthday Weekend in Nelson

There’s something about Nelson that immediately feels alive.

Tucked along the edge of Kootenay Lake and surrounded by steep forested mountains, Nelson has always had a reputation for being a little different — a little more artistic, a little more relaxed, and full of personality.

Walking through town, you feel it immediately. People wander between cafés and bookstores, conversations spill onto sidewalks, and historic buildings filled with murals and vintage storefronts give the town a kind of creative energy that feels both lively and unhurried.

It was exactly the kind of place I wanted to spend a quiet weekend celebrating my 40th birthday.

Our Stay

We checked into a lovely Airbnb tucked into a heritage home just a short walk from all the shops in town. The space had cozy boho decor and felt bright, clean, and thoughtfully designed while still feeling comfortable and homey.

The kids immediately fell in love with it.

There were shelves filled with games, books, and toys, and within minutes they had discovered a game called Klask. They couldn’t get enough of it and quickly declared they never wanted to leave.

The suite also felt nicely private and separate from the main residence, though occasionally we could hear their kids playing piano or little footsteps and voices through the house. Rather than feeling intrusive, it actually added to the charm and made the place feel warm and lived-in.

There were thoughtful little details everywhere — hanging charms in the bedrooms and beautiful soaps and shampoos that worked wonderfully for our family’s sensitive skin.

It was the kind of place where you immediately feel at home.

Friday Night in Nelson

Since the kids were perfectly happy staying in and exploring the games, we ordered them a Domino’s pizza — ham and pineapple, of course — and Kevin and I slipped out into the lightly rainy streets of Nelson.

I didn’t bring my camera since I had forgotten my rain cover, which made me a little sad. But it also meant I could simply wander and take it all in.

Our first stop was Backroads Brewing, where we reminisced about visiting years ago when they had first opened. Nelson has that wonderful ability to make time feel layered like that.

As we wandered toward our dinner reservation at The Black Cauldron, we noticed a flower shop still open and glowing warmly in the evening light: Bella Flora.

Of course I had to step inside, mostly because the name is so close to our beloved Bella Vita Flowers in Summerland.

We ended up having the loveliest conversation with the owner. In a funny twist of small-world coincidence, they once received a flower shipment meant for Bella Vita by mistake. We laughed about it and chatted for a while, and they shared a few wonderful recommendations for places to explore during our visit.

By the time we stepped back out onto the street, it was the perfect moment to head to dinner.

The Black Cauldron

The Black Cauldron had such a unique atmosphere — artsy with slightly witchy vibes. Dark plush chairs, interesting cocktails, and a menu that felt a little adventurous.

We shared a charcuterie platter and bruschetta while Kevin ordered a venison burger.

At one point another table began cheering for someone’s birthday, and we raised our glasses and joined them. It turned out they were fellow wine industry folks from the Okanagan, and one of them was even a photographer whose path has crossed mine while photographing some of the same winery clients.

A small world, especially in the Okanagan Wine industry.

We wished each other well as the new season approaches.

Mikey’s

Of course, a night in Nelson wouldn’t feel complete without a stop at Mikey’s.

Mikey’s still carries its original character — dated tile and carpet that feel like they belong to another era. The kind of place that hasn’t tried to reinvent itself.

We sat with a drink and watched the life of the bar unfold around us before heading back to the Airbnb for the night.

Saturday: Rain and Hot Springs

Saturday morning greeted us with steady rain, which meant the camera stayed safely tucked away again.

Still, the day had its own rhythm.

We started at The Nelson Bakery for coffee, yogurt, granola, and a few breakfast treats. Then we popped into L&C French Bakery to pick out some special birthday pastries for later. I grabbed a lavender hot tea to bring along for our next adventure.

Then we set off for Ainsworth Hot Springs.

The 45-minute drive along Kootenay Lake in the rain was beautiful. We spent the drive imagining what it might be like to live in one of the cozy lakefront heritage homes tucked along the shoreline.

The hot springs were perfect for a rainy day.

The kids loved exploring the caves, moving from the main pool through the warm tunnels, dipping their toes into the cold plunge pool, and then returning to the warmth again. We spent the entire afternoon soaking and playing.

Dinner and Birthday Cake

Back in Nelson that evening, the kids had spotted a retro diner sign earlier in the day and asked if we could eat there.

It turned out to be a Greek diner, and we happily shared calamari and dolmades for dinner.

Then we returned to the Airbnb for hot tea, games, books, and the pastries we had picked up earlier from L&C Bakery.

The tropical cake was especially good.

It was a quiet, cozy evening — the kind that feels just right.

Sunday Morning

Sunday morning started at Oso Negro, where I had one of the best coffees of the trip. I drink my coffee black, so a good roast always stands out.

I paired mine with a chocolate cherry muffin while the rest of the family ordered breakfast items from the menu.

To our surprise, breakfast for our family of five came to under $35, which felt like a small miracle.

After breakfast we walked a 6,000-step loop around town so I could capture a few of the sights I had missed during the rain.

Then we drove over to Pulpit Rock.

Pulpit Rock

The trail climbs steeply for about 1.8 km through forest and natural stone stairs before opening up to sweeping views of Nelson and Kootenay Lake.

The kids loved the winding trail and rocky steps, and it made for a good morning workout for all of us.

When we reached the top, the panoramic view of the city and lake below was incredible.

After the hike we grabbed a quick bite for the drive home, and the kids fell asleep almost immediately after logging well over 15,000 steps that morning.

A Quiet Birthday

Some birthdays are big celebrations.

Others arrive more gently.

They’re filled with wandering unfamiliar streets, soaking in warm mountain water, climbing forest trails, sharing conversations with strangers who suddenly feel like friends, and watching your children discover new places.

This birthday felt like that.

And Nelson was the perfect place for it.

Turning forty doesn’t feel like a beginning or an ending to me.

It feels more like returning to something I had lost for a while.

The past few years asked a lot — motherhood, injuries, grief, and the quiet work of holding everything together. There were stretches where life felt more like survival than living.

But this year feels different.

I’m moving again. Running. Hiking. Saying yes to wandering new places with the kids. Paying closer attention to how I spend my time and where my energy goes. Choosing moments that feel real instead of rushing past them.

Maybe that’s what forty means for me.

Not trying to do more, but learning to be fully present in the life that is already here.

A rainy weekend in Nelson. Kids laughing over a board game. Warm water in a mountain hot spring. Climbing a trail together and standing at the top, looking out over the lake.

Those small moments suddenly feel like the whole point.

And if the next decade holds more days like that, I think it will be a beautiful one.